HVAC Rescue Pros is a call-connection service, not a contractor. When you call, an automated prompt or an intake agent may ask for your ZIP code and what is going on. Then you are transferred to an independent local heating and cooling company that serves your area. You talk with them directly and decide whether to book. More on how it works.
Does it cost anything to call?
No. Calling and being connected costs you nothing, and you never pay HVAC Rescue Pros. If you book a visit or a repair, the company you speak with sets the price and you pay them directly.
Who pays HVAC Rescue Pros?
Participating home-service companies pay us for connected calls. That is how the service is funded. It also means you reach a company that takes part in the network, not every company in your area. Being connected is not an endorsement, and you are always welcome to compare.
Who will I talk to when I call?
An automated prompt or an intake agent may ask for your ZIP code first. After that, you talk with the local heating and cooling company itself, not with us.
Do you check a company's license and insurance?
No. HVAC Rescue Pros does not verify licenses or insurance, so please check before work starts. Ask for the company's license number and look it up with your state's contractor licensing board. Ask for proof of insurance, get the estimate in writing, ask about the warranty on parts and labor, and ask who will do the work.
Are calls recorded?
Calls may be recorded for quality assurance. Our Privacy Policy explains how call information is handled.
What happens to my phone number and call details?
They are used to connect and route your call and for quality assurance. There are no forms on this site, so there is no form data to collect. Details, including how to opt out, are in our Privacy Policy and its Do Not Sell or Share My Personal Information section.
Heating problems
These answers cover the checks a homeowner can safely do. If they don't solve the problem, call a pro. Don't open burner compartments, touch gas valves or bypass safety switches.
Why is my furnace blowing cold air?
Check the thermostat first. It should be set to HEAT, and the fan should be on AUTO, not ON. With the fan on ON, it keeps blowing between heating cycles, and that air feels cold. A clogged air filter can make the furnace overheat, so the limit switch shuts the burners off while the blower keeps running. If both look fine, common causes are a dirty flame sensor, a failed hot surface ignitor or a pilot that won't stay lit. On high-efficiency furnaces, a clogged condensate line can also shut the burners down. See furnace repair.
Why won't my furnace turn on?
Go through the basics: thermostat set to HEAT and a few degrees above room temperature, fresh thermostat batteries, the breaker, the furnace power switch (it looks like a light switch near the unit) and the furnace door panel, which presses a safety switch and must be fully in place. If it still does nothing, look for a blinking light through the small window on the furnace door and count the blinks. That error code helps a technician narrow down problems like a failed ignitor, a pressure switch, the inducer motor or the control board. The no-heat checklist walks through each step.
Why does my furnace keep turning on and off?
That is called short cycling: the furnace starts, runs a few minutes and shuts off before the house warms up. Common causes are a clogged filter, a dirty flame sensor, a blocked vent or flue pipe, or a faulty limit switch. Replace the filter and make sure supply vents and return grilles are open and not blocked by furniture. If it keeps happening, have it checked. Short cycling wears out parts, and it can be a sign the furnace is overheating.
Is it normal for my heat pump to ice up?
A light layer of frost on the outdoor unit is normal in cold, damp weather. The heat pump runs a defrost cycle to melt it, and you may see steam and hear a whoosh when the reversing valve switches over. Thick ice that covers the coil, or ice that doesn't clear within about an hour, is not normal. It often points to a defrost control problem, a refrigerant leak or a fan problem. Keep snow cleared away from the unit, but don't chip at the ice. See heat pump repair.
What should the pressure on my boiler be?
Hot water boilers have a pressure gauge, usually on the front of the unit. When the system is cold, a typical reading is about 12 to 15 psi, and it rises a little as the water heats up. If the gauge reads well below that, keeps dropping, or water drips from the relief valve, call a pro. Low pressure can mean a leak or an expansion tank problem, and it can leave radiators cold. Steam boilers run at much lower pressure, so this range does not apply to them. Reading the gauge is fine; adding water or bleeding the system is a job for the technician. See boiler repair.
What should I do if I smell gas?
A rotten-egg smell can mean a gas leak. Don't touch light switches, appliances or the thermostat, and don't use anything that could make a spark. Get everyone out of the house right away. From outside, call your gas utility or 911. Don't go back in until they tell you it is safe. Once the gas side is cleared, a heating pro can check the furnace or boiler.
What should I do if my carbon monoxide alarm goes off?
Get everyone out of the house, pets included, and call 911 from outside. Carbon monoxide has no smell, so don't wait for symptoms like headache, dizziness or nausea. Don't go back in until responders say it is safe. A furnace or boiler can put out carbon monoxide if it has a cracked heat exchanger or a blocked vent, so have the system inspected before you use it again.
Scheduling and pricing
How fast can someone come out?
It depends on your area, the time of day and how busy local pros are. Same-day visits are often possible, especially when the heat is completely out, but they can't be promised. The simplest way to find out is to call (813) 471-5413 and ask the company you are connected with when they can be there.
Can I call in the evening or on a weekend?
Yes. Calls are answered 7 days a week. Whether a company can come out then depends on who is available in your area. If the heat is out on a cold night, say so on the call. While you wait, close curtains to hold in heat, use space heaters only with plenty of clearance and never unattended, and let faucets drip if pipes are at risk in very cold weather. See emergency heating repair.
How does pricing work?
Prices are set by the company you are connected with, not by HVAC Rescue Pros, and depend on the problem and the parts needed. Ask on the call how they charge, for example whether there is a fee for the diagnostic visit and whether it counts toward the repair. Before any work starts, ask for a written estimate that lists the parts, the labor and the total. You decide whether to go ahead.
Should I repair or replace my furnace?
As a rule of thumb, a furnace under about 15 years old with a minor problem, like a dirty flame sensor or a failed ignitor, is usually worth repairing. An older furnace with a major fault, such as a cracked heat exchanger, may be safer to replace. Age, repair history and safety all matter. Ask the pro to explain both options in writing. Our guide on whether to repair or replace a furnace goes through the questions to ask.